What type of wood is used to glue the laminate sheet to create a countertop ?

I want to build a curved bar and I am starting to frame it. But what is the most popular wood used to make a counter top for which the laminate sheet will be glue to? The plywood at home depot is warp like crazy and I can't see using this junk.

Plywood is the wood carpenters use below laminate countertop. But, you are right about different qualities of plywood. Here is what my husband, a carpenter, says. "Buy a cabinet grade birch or oak plywood at least 3/4 inch thick, but not that Chinese cr*p. What is the point of making a piece of furniture, but scrimping on the part that gives it stability, and durability?"

Even though you are covering it with laminate, the top (and base) must be well contructed and durable enough to withstand people leaning on it. And, if you don't like what Home Depot has you should go to another lumber yard.

P.S. Particle board and MDF, while relatively stable, are not as durable, and they will not stand up to dampness.

Commercial countertops are anywhere from 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" thick - (a single piece) of particle board.

Of course, we buy it by the 'bunk', not by the 'sheet'. You can achieve the same results by glueing a couple of thinner sheet stock together.

Only MDF will give a smoother surface for laminate to adhere to.....Particle board is the industry standard for countertops. In my own projects, Ive also used a lot of plywood, (in my case, poplar plywood). I insist on the plywood being a good quality ply... 7 layers, exterior glue, and smooth both sides, no voids. (But it may still be necessary to fill some dents)

Laminate will 'telegraph' any imperfections or specks of dirt that are caught below it when it is applied.. so make sure the surface is smooth, and dust free. And for that 'solid' feel to the top, use a thicker core...if you only use a single layer of 3/4 sheet stock... you're going to feel it (and it will be more likely to warp later). Be sure to apply some kind of 'backer' to the underside of the core too, to help keep it balanced. (Laminate is more than capable of warping a core, if there is nothing on the other side to help balance it)

If you want to glue a wood band to the edge (yes it can even be done on a counter with a bow to the front edge), I recommend that a "T" slot be routered into it, and rabbet the moulding to match. Make the slot just a bit deeper than the tongue on the edgemoulding for glue, and to keep the moulding flush against the core edge. Some 'C' clamps, and band, or bar clamps are helpful too... use the 'C' clamp to keep the edge moulding flush with the top surface of the core, and the band or bar clamps to edge clamp the trim in place til the glue sets (Titebond 2 is an excellent glue for this type of project, and can be found at any hardware store). Then use painters tape and kraft paper to mask off the laminate when you are ready to sand, stain and topcoat the edge.

Have Fun

I agree with the dude after you build up the sides you could run 1x2 oak around the edges and then laminate it then chamfer it to get rid of the sharp edge or laminate the edges too

allot of times ppl (me included) use birch plywood 2-3/4" sheets thick to give the usual 1 1/2" appearance. some ppl I know still use high density particle board.

Particle board

Use 3/4 sandply from home depot. Put a 3" strip around the perimeter on the underside to make the edges 1 1/2" thick.
Particle board swells up like a tampon when it gets wet - and it will get wet.

I use a good quality MDF board (two 3/4 sheets) and glue the laminate to the board with contact cement.