How to fix drywall after primer is on?

We just got done mudding the taped drywall. We used 2-3 coats of the mud on it. Then we applied primer to the wall. Unfortunately now that the primer is on we can see the areas we mudded, like stripes running down the wall. How can we fix this problem? Will the stripes show after we apply the paint to the walls? Should I sand these areas down even though the primer is on it already? Don't know what to do? This is our first attempt at mudding drywall!

hello,im a drywall finisher for over 20 years,this could be a couple of things. first use a 10inch drywall knife and place it on the seam to check and see if it is crowned. if the knife rocks on the joint it is crowned and that will cause it to show.if it is flush and you have aplyed the primer correctly and your joints have been sanded so that all areas are flush you should'nt have a problem in your finish coat of paint. if there not in good enough shape yet you can touch them up over the top of the primer, but you will need to reprime those areas again after you apply more mud.it is also good to sponge after sanding to get the dust off,as the dust will affect how the primer looks on the wall surfus.its sorta hard to know excactly what your seeing ,but if all is smooth and a good coat of primer was used the flashing should cover with final color coat. hope this helps you,or theres ucandrywall too.

It has to do with the translucent nature of your primer but it should be ok.

Curious to know what brand of primer and paint you intend to use. .. There are only one or two good brands of paint... Benjamin Moore Super Spec, eggshell is good for walls and some of the Sherwin Williams. If you cant buy Benjamin Moore primer Lowes carries Zinser, it works great. Woudn't hurt to give it another coat of primer with some good paint...

Look at your primed job at an angle do you see any raised areas.. Indented areas are ok you can fill after you prime and touch up prime...Sometimes you cant see these until the primer is on. Thats why its better to use a good primer that is not translucent... Whatever you do don't touchup prime with Kilz water based primer. That will give you spots that bleed thru your paint even if you put 100 coats on..
The oil based kilz was good the water base is a hideous product...

The mud should have been sanded between each coat to keep it smooth...You can attempt to add another coat and sand it.

primer does just what it's name says, it primes the walls for paint. it does not hide the mud stripes.

when you paint, you will not see the mud.

it is impossible to get a perfectly straight wall with no imperfections. even when professionals do it, there will be some imperfections. but since you did the work, you will always know where the rougher areas are. it's just a mental thing. paint it and move on.

sure!
Just feather your "new" mud out better this time , sand wipe off the sander dust with a damp cloth and re prime the spot. its just the primer and it won't show up.
That's a good question to ask 1 bright yellow star for the painters!

even though i am a woman i have put up dry wall . and yes you have to sand it , you also have to put the primer where you sanded. won't take long. and when the job is done it's done forever!

If you are seeing the tape lines, you need to sand and reprime the wall. Sounds like you did not feather out the joints far enough to blend into the wall. Each coat of mud should be applied with a wider knife than the previous coat.

You can remud (spackle) on top of primer, or first test an area with paint - the area of concern may not bleed through.

if the area is bowed out, you have too much mud and yes you will see it when the paint is on. to solve it now, you will have to use heavy grit sand paper to get the primer back off, then sand down the mud until smooth. in the future, thin your mud with water (if you bought pre-mixed). it should be slightly thicker than cake mix but not run or drip off the spackling knife. if its the consistency of cookie dough, you need to thin it to prevent this gobbing. if the area is bowed in or concave, then your mud was too thin and after the water leaves in the drying process left you you with this problem. in this case, leave the primer on, and apply another coat of mud, resand, and reprime.

Most primers don't cover completely. Its job is to seal the surface. If the mud is smooth, go ahead and paint. If you still see any dimples, hit them again with mud keeping the knife tight. Sand lightly, prime those spots, then paint. Don't worry about seeing the mud through the primer.

Sounds like you applied to much joint compound in the same area with out getting wider with each application. Use a wider blade in one spot prime, sand and paint it see if it improves the appearance.

yes sand out the strips and then re seal it ..

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In all of the answers above, I am surprised that no one mentioned the fact that spackling trowels are different from masonry trowels. Spackle trowels have a very slight bow in them. This lets more spackle in the center of the trowel to be left on the joint, while allowing a feathering action along the edges. This compensates for shrinking of the spackle, thus leaving a level seam after final sanding.

Using a flat trowel causes a hollow in the center of the seam, and beginners keep trying to fill that hollow by applying more spackle. That action, leaves blobs of spackle on the edges of the seams which must be sanded.

Proper tools for a proper result.